The Pepes Method from Bali
Pepes ikan relies on steam and smoke trapped inside banana leaves. Cooks in Indonesia use this technique to infuse white fish with rempah; a spice paste built from shallots, garlic, ginger, and chilies ground with volcanic stone. Lake Taupo rainbow trout contain higher oil content than the snapper or trevally typically used in Balinese warungs; this fat absorbs the aromatic oils from bay leaves and turmeric while protecting the flesh from the direct heat of the charcoal.
Ingredient List
Prep time: 30 minutes | Cook time: 25 minutes | Serves: 4
The Fish
- 2 Whole Rainbow Trout: From Lake Taupo, gutted and scaled, approximately 600g each
- 2 Tablespoons Lime Juice: Freshly squeezed from Kaffir or Tahitian limes
- 1 Teaspoon Sea Salt: Coarse flakes
The Rempah Base
- 6 Shallots: Peeled and roughly chopped
- 4 Cloves Garlic: Peeled
- 2 Candlenuts: Or substitute 8 macadamia nuts
- 2 Red Chilies: Fresno or cayenne, seeded for mild heat
- 2 cm Fresh Turmeric: Peeled; or 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 2 cm Fresh Ginger: Peeled
- 1 cm Fresh Galangal: Peeled; optional but traditional
- 1/2 Teaspoon Ground Coriander: Toasted
- 1/2 Teaspoon Ground White Pepper
- 3 Tablespoons Coconut Oil: Unrefined virgin variety
The Wrap and Garnish
- 4 Banana Leaf Sheets: Each 25cm by 30cm, wiped clean
- 4 Toothpicks: Or stapler; to seal packets
- 4 Kaffir Lime Leaves: Destemmed
- 2 Lemongrass Stalks: Bruised and tied into knots
- 4 Thin Slices of Ginger: For topping
- Steamed Jasmine Rice: To serve
Preparation and Cooking Method
1. Soften the Banana Leaves
Pass each banana leaf sheet over an open flame for 10 seconds per side; the heat melts the waxy cuticle and prevents tearing. Alternatively, dip leaves in boiling water for 30 seconds. Pat dry.
2. Build the Rempah
Grind shallots, garlic, candlenuts, chilies, turmeric, ginger, and galangal into a smooth paste using a mortar and pestle. This mechanical action ruptures cell walls to release essential oils. Mix in ground coriander and white pepper. Fold in coconut oil to form a thick, spreadable paste.
3. Prepare the Trout
Rinse trout under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Score both sides with three diagonal cuts, 5mm deep. Rub the cavity and skin with sea salt and lime juice. Let stand for 15 minutes; the acid begins to denature surface proteins.
4. Assemble the Pepes
Lay two banana leaf sheets overlapping to form a cross. Place one trout in the center. Stuff half the rempah into the cavity; spread the remainder over the top of the fish. Lay one kaffir lime leaf and one bruised lemongrass knot on top. Place a ginger slice over the head. Fold the sides of the leaves inward, then roll to form a tight packet. Secure with toothpicks or staples at the seam. Repeat for the second fish.
5. Steam Grill
Prepare a charcoal grill for indirect cooking; bank coals to one side. Alternatively, use a heavy cast-iron grill pan over medium heat on a stovetop. Place packets on the cooler side of the grill or in the pan. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. The internal temperature of the fish at the thickest part behind the head should reach 60°C.
6. Rest and Serve
Remove packets from heat and let rest for 5 minutes. The residual heat completes protein coagulation. Open leaves at the table; the escaping steam carries aromatic compounds from the rempah. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.
Chef’s Notes for Success
- Banana leaf sourcing: Frozen banana leaves are available at Asian supermarkets; thaw completely before use. Wilted leaves tear easily.
- Grinding technique: A food processor produces a workable paste but generates heat that volatilizes aromatics. Stone grinding yields superior flavor.
- Heat management: Direct flame contact burns the leaves. If using a gas grill, maintain temperature below 200°C at the cooking surface.
- Substitutions: If candlenuts are unavailable, macadamia nuts provide similar texture and oil content without the toxicity of raw candlenuts.
- Fish size: Two 600g trout serve four people. Single trout over 1kg require 30 minutes cooking time and should be cut into steaks to ensure even heat penetration.
From Bali to the Great Lake
The banana leaf serves as both cooking vessel and seasoning. As the leaf heats, polyphenols and chlorophyll break down into volatile compounds that deposit on the fish surface. The rempah contains lipophilic flavor molecules that bind to the 8% fat content typical of mature Lake Taupo rainbow trout; this is double the fat found in Indonesian milkfish preparations.
The technique mirrors aspects of Māori cooking methods using raurēkau or cabbage tree leaves to wrap parcels for the hāngi. Both traditions recognize that enclosing fish in vegetation preserves moisture while adding subtle bitterness. The difference lies in the spice palette; Indonesian cooking favors rhizomes and capsicum where Māori tradition emphasizes the mineral qualities of the earth itself.
Reserve Your Charter
Our morning trips on Lake Taupo target the deep channels where rainbow trout reach 600g by their third year. We clean and ice your catch immediately; the cold chain preserves the fat quality necessary for this preparation. Bring a cooler to transport your fish; we recommend freezing to minus 20°C for 48 hours if you intend to cure rather than cook.
Visit greatlakefishingtours.club to book your trip. We supply rods, tackle, and cleaning stations. The Hinemaiaia River mouth produces trout with high oil content during late autumn.